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Overheating in traffic

July 31, 2015, 8:36 am
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here i am again.

i have a problem that i thought i had rectified.

when in bumper to bumper traffic the temperature gauge goes up but the minute you rev up the engine or move slightly ahead the temperature gauge goes down.

Im worried as its raining and still this happens.

some wiseguy told me to bypass the thermostat 8-0= another one told me to lock the fan permanently8-0=8-0=.

need help!!
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Starter Relay voltage

July 31, 2015, 9:13 am
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Still can't get my 1990 classic to start. New Battery and switched out three new starter relays all the same. Voltage is as follows:

Ignition Off: If I jump pin30 and pin87 engine turns over
pin 30 Brown wire 12.50 volts
pin 87 Brown-red wire 0 volts
pin85 White with red wrapping wire 0 volts
pin 86 White with red line wire 0 volts

Ignition position III: If I jump pin30 and pin87 engine turns over with 11.73 volts
pin 30 Brown wire 11.73 volts
pin 87 Brown-red wire 0 volts Relay not tripping
pin85 White with red wrapping wire 11.34 volts
pin 86 White with red line wire 11.34 volts

Any ideas why I can't get the starter relay to trip pin30 and 87? Thanks, Doug
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New kid On the bloc

July 31, 2015, 1:40 pm
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Just bought a 2002 RR vogue 4.4 V8 88k miles any advice what to look out for that may be a prob?. Paid £5995 with 6 month warrenty Engine Drive train Gearbox.PS love it had a TDV Disco for 8 years.
Kind regards
j
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New and discontinued paint colors

July 31, 2015, 1:42 pm
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Can anyone comment on Causeway Grey, discontinued for 2016, and Carpathian Grey, a new color for 2016. Both colors are premium. It appears like they are very close to one another. Is one darker than the other or are they the same with just a name change?​
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O2 sensor woes - replaced and still not switching.

July 31, 2015, 6:05 pm
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So I lost an O2 halfway down a ~800 mi trip to see family in Los Angeles. 2000 Bosch 4.0 w/ ~100k

Engine was getting even worse gas mileage than usual, throwing every O2 B1S1 code it could find (but nothing else) and live data clearly showed either weak, out of spec, or simply no signal coming out of the B1S1 sensor and Bank 1 Open Loop with +25 fuel trim. Not much more to diagnosis than actually witnessing the sensor in a failure mode, right?

Got a new [used] one from a local and just got around to installing it... cleared the codes and started watching live data:

Some random numbers out of B1S1 - switching seems off.

Bank 1 goes into: Open Loop - Error

B1S1 graph fluctuates erratically, then dies completely - not data, graph flatlines. (B2S1 switches beautifully and Bank 2 runs Closed Loop as it should.)

Are these prone to a bad ground? Where would I find that to inspect/clean? Fuses? Do I just have that bad of luck that two sensors in a row are bad? Once the cats are cool again I'm going to swap B2 and B1 and see if the fault follows the sensor. Unless y'all have a better plan. :oops:
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Stablemate for the RRS

July 31, 2015, 10:28 pm
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I have enjoyed my 2014 for the past year and a half. A number of you probably have noticed that I have been perfectly content with the performance of my HSE (tuned) for daily driving and weekly towing. If I feel the need for speed, I always have my bracket car. Also, I just replaced my C6Z06 with this 2016 Z06 with 650 hp. If anyone gives my V6 RRS a bad time, he'll have to deal with his brother...



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ISO Brake Accumulator Tail Light

July 31, 2015, 11:36 pm
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I need a Brake Accumulator and electronic control module. The accumulator is a powder coated black round topped steel container with a yellow label. Rear passenger tail light lens. Trailer wiring plug kit for Four prong USA type hitch. I have a 2000 4.6 HSE.
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FOB Ignition Key RR SC Model Year 2006

July 31, 2015, 11:56 pm
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Hi,
Sorry guys if this question been answered recently..
My RR SC Year 2006 , I m curious and recently i just replaced my original FOB key with new battery..
Shall I reprogramme the key before use like always the method :

1) Get in and close all doors. Turn ignition on and off quickly and remove the key (all within about 5 seconds).

2) Within 30 seconds of turning the ignition off, while holding down the "unlock" button, press the "lock" button three times. Release the "unlock" button. (You may or may not get the confirmation from the door locks.) Holding the key at your head level provides best results as the key sensor is in the side window pillar.

Your answer will definitely save my hassle by going to the RR dealer for advise..Thank u in advance....:shock:
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What should I be paying for a transmission rebuild for a 03

August 1, 2015, 1:11 am
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So over the last month or so my L322 has been feeling a bit sluggish under load. When holding about 30 mph at a slight grade I would get a humming noise from underneath and a but of a shudder. I would give it a little gas and it would push on though.

2 days ago same issue. As I gave it a little gas to push through it, the gear slipped and engine began to rev. I let off it and it regained it's gear. The trans failsafe light came on. That morning I put it in reverse just fine. Once in drive, it would not engage gear until I gave it a bit more gas. A big bang and very slow to pick up speed.

The mechanic who performed the timing chain guides sent me an estimate of $4000 with a 12 month 12k mile warrenty. He tells me Amco will be the ones to actually perform the rebuild. He says the faults indicate a bad clutch drum and a rebuild is the only way to go? Is this about right for a 13 year old vehicle? It's a 2003 l322 with a bmw 4.4 out of chicago Illinois USA. Please chime in.
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Rear Passenger Footwell Bulge/Bloated

August 1, 2015, 3:12 am
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I bought a 2014 Range Rover Sport Autobiography and now find that there is a hump/bloating/bulge underneath the carpet in the rear near side passenger footwell where one would rest their feet. The footwell is not as flat as the other offside rear passenger footwell. Is this normal design feature or something more sinister? Please let me know.
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Passenger side windows

August 1, 2015, 3:29 am
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Hi all,

Just purchased my first Range Rover P38 2001 4.6 v8.
got to say its lovely to drive.
unfortunately it has a sight problem with the electrics (I think).
The passenger side front window does not seem to work at all, cant get it to respond when I push the button.
I also thought the rear did not work either, but that works when I use the control on the door itself, it just does not work when I use the centre console buttons.
checked all the fuses that I can and nothing wrong there.
anyone have any ideas what it could be?
cheers in advance for any help!
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Poor take off, No power, slow speed, gears appear not engage

August 1, 2015, 5:33 am
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I am very disappointed, I took my P38 2000, Diesel engine 2.5 for service for service and upon collection the car now has poor take off, very slow speed and can not go beyond 70 miles an hour even with the accelerator right down. The gears appear not to be engaging. I dont hear gears changing. The engine sound appears normal the idling is ok but the engine appears not to have enough power for normal take off and normal speed in the motor way. The fuel consumption is now very high because i drive with the accelerator pedal right down. I have no clue what could be the problem because the diagnostic machine is not picking anything. I need your advice, I hope someone has experienced this before.

Thank you in adavnce
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Using sport mode

August 1, 2015, 7:31 am
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So one day while sitting at a light I was playing with the shifter moving it between normal and sport mode. Whatever happened I starting to go and was in sport mode and the vehicle seemed to have more power. Mind you I wasn't nailing the gas just seemed to have a small boost. I don't have a supercharged version so as we know the stock Jag engine in this model is a little lacking power wise. This little boost (and the fact that the shift points are further out) is a great little surprise. I have had transmissions like this before (jags) and normally its just the longer shift point. My questions are...

When in sport at a stop, does the trans shift into a different drive gear then in normal ?

Does anyone else use this on a regular basis for that small boost in power ?

Will using it till I get to say 50mph then shifting into normal hurt the tranny more than not using it.

She seems to like this when I do it and its almost like I have an engine upgrade, LOL, so I like it also.
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SOS...Running out of options for my P38. Please read

August 1, 2015, 8:28 am
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tHi Guys,

I have several threads recently on the problems I've been experiencing for the last year or so. So far my attempts to fix have been unsuccessful. Now I'm really in trouble as I have two problems that may or not be related that are preventing me from starting my car.

Here's whats going on.

Randomly, I will not be able to start the car. It will crank, but not fire. The message center says Fuse 6, 7, 17, and 26 failure, along with gearbox fault, ABS fault and traction fault. These fuses when checked are not getting power, neither is the engine ECU, therefore my engine will not start. They are all related to Relay 10 inside of the BECM. My BeCM has been to Scotty and relay 10 has been replaced, no luck. The corresponding maxi fuse is also okay. I have not checked or replaced the fusebox but it has been inspected and it looks okay.

Here's where it gets weird. When it acts up, if I connect a jump pack or battery charger to the vehicle, the problem immediately goes away. The battery has been replaced with the correct Interstate battery.

As random as it starts, it goes away. Which brings us to my next problem.

I have a working remote, with new batteries, but became unsynced EVERY time I went to use it. I had to sync EVERY TIME I wanted to use it (sync with door locks).

Randomly, the truck told me engine disabled, press remote. Not a problem, I just needed to sync it. Except the driver's door lock stopped working. As in A TURN TO THE RIGHT ACTIVATED CENTRAL LOCK, BUT A TURN TO THE LEFT DID NOTHING BUT MANUALLY UNLOCK DRIVER'S DOOR. The car only recognizes lock inputs, not unlock inputs. Now I can't enter EKA code or sync remote. And since I tried to enter EKA code a few times, it was now superlocked. None of the doors unlocked besides the driver's door. So I bought a new driver's door latch and replaced it. Still nothing. So I bought a new passenger side door latch and replaced that. Still nothing. We have replaced the door outstations as well, no luck.

My shop is using Autologic and the following faults are showing up:

Instrument Pack
Centre Console Pack
Right Hand Door
Left Hand Door
Right Hand Memory Seat
Left Hand Memory Seat

If they attempt to clear the codes using Autologic, it says it has lost connection to the BECM.

I apologize for the wall of text, but I have a very nice Range Rover as good as scrap at this point. I'm working with Scotty, who is of course a god send, and the shop will attempt to put in a spare BECM on Monday to see if that gets us anywhere.

Thanks all.
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Hello

August 1, 2015, 10:12 am
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Hello from sunny Guernsey.

I am clearly in need of help, so please go gentle.

Turk
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Date and Time format keep resetting?

August 1, 2015, 10:47 am
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I have just under 5000 mi on my 2015 RRS supercharged and recently noticed when I get back in my car at the end of a hot summer day the Time and Date format has changed. I orginally set the clock to a normal 12hr am/pm setting and date to the typical mo/dd/yr setting. When I get in my car at the end of the day it displays a millitary 24hr clock and date as dd/mo/yr. No other settings are different. This happened once and didn't think much, then happened again and then a 3rd time and now I am wondering what is going on?
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Chassis replaced for later type now have height issues

August 1, 2015, 12:00 pm
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Hi,
A good friend has replaced his chassis that had the 3 bolt hole height sensors for a later chassis that uses the 2 bolt hole chassis.
I got involved to fit the new sensors and re wiring needed to sort the eas out.

The problem is that the height is too high on the front, but ok on the back !

I know about re trimming the target settings in the suspension ecu, but the front height difference is more than that.

The access, motorway, and normal settings do adjust and set properly (with the greater height offset on front), but the extended setting cannot be set due to mechanical limitations (shock absorber topping out).

As the 4 height setting prior to chassis change, and on the old sensors, were fine, I am wondering what is causing this issue ?

All the new 2 bolt sensors and wiring are correct, so does the later p38 use a different shaped radial arms, so the sensor arm bolt hole is in a different height position to the earlier one ?

Please advise,

Paul.
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Took the 2014 RRS to 13,000 feet on 22's no less!

August 1, 2015, 1:17 pm
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Newish member here but wanted to share some pics of taking our 2014 RRS up Imogene Pass in Colorado near Telluride.

For looks and better handling, we went with the 22 inch wheel while building the car in late 2013. Given that our rims are already scraped to hell from curbs while parking in San Francisco...I decided that with damage already done, it was time to take up a proper mountain rode in Telluride.

The car performed so well going up Imogene Pass...so smooth, perfect power, hill descent control works as advertised that maybe next year I'll grab some 20" All-terrain wheels and go for a longer journey :)

Also grabbed some ski turns in the snow...not bad for late July.













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BECM issue? no power to HVAC, Radio, Aux Power

August 1, 2015, 2:30 pm
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Hi everyone:

I am having an issue with power to my HEVAC head unit along with power to run the radio and Aux Cigar Lighter. it is a 2001 P38 SE with 4.6L.

I have checked the fuses in both under the seat and in the engine compartment, I have also swapped out the BECM Power board and swapped out the engine compartment fuse box with a new one. so far nothing has resolved the issue. I am thinking the issue must reside in the BECM logic board as I can't see any other item that could be at fault. I do have a Lynx diagnostic interface for the vehicle and can read BECM and other system settings and fault codes of which there are no faults codes present. if I do have to swap out the BECM logic board can it be done with the lynx and what settings do I need to record from the BECM before removal in order to setup a replacement. I have a used BECM here that was the doner for the power board.


thanks

mike
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EKA wont work

August 1, 2015, 2:34 pm
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hi all yet another problem....

few days ago me and a friend was changing my power steering pump and the battery was left off over night. The next morning when we continued i but the battery bacck on to find i had engine disabled. my friend then showed me how to use the keycode that was in the hand book 5-1-4-4.

with that i was able to start my RR..

well today my key fob case turned up that i brought from eBay so i decide 10 mins before we was to set off to new forest that i would change them over .... Big mistake

i managed to pull the little chip off the fob board that had 4k on it white with 6 pins... i didn't worries as i knew i could use the key-code to drive away...

that never happened the problem started at 10am when the rr wasn't working from the key-code 5-1-4-4 iv done it every way possible starting with 4 clicks lock before the code that didn't work. then by 1 click to lock then my code . no joy

i know the code is right but just keep getting key code locked iv taken apart my latch ect that's all fine i even get the light on dash when entering the key-code but still put the key in and Engine disabled use key fob or key-code..


any help plz would be very much appreciated
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