This is my first post on this site. I have had my 1998 Range Rover for two years now, and I cant tell you how much knowledge I have gained from this site. So, I wanted to contribute to the site myself.
Note to reader: This is not a comprehensive tutorial on lifting your truck. What I found most helpful when I was searching for my lift was the results, and just some general tips given by the owners lifting their rig, so that is what I will be writing about.
To start, here are some link that I found very helpful when looking for a lift and proper components.
Alan Bates Lift Guide (super helpful):
http://www.rockrover.com/techarticles.htm
Some general info on the lifting procedure:
http://hildstrom.com/projects/p38acoils/index.html
Many set-ups from users on this site:
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-r...ings-only.html
Tire Info:
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...ormation-6885/
Expedition Exchange spring index (super helpful):
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/ome/indexsprings.php
Secondly, I bought the truck with coils already installed, so I do not have any information regarding the spring seats, but from what I have seen, there are two main kits that you can buy. Google it and you will find all the info you need. This is also not a coil vs airbag argument, there are different needs for different people. If you really feel the need to let your thoughts be known, there are tons of threads where you can go and argue your hearts content on this forum.
Now time for the lift details:
Front Springs: Old Man Emu 2751 passenger side springs [$168]
Front Shocks: Terrafirma All-Terrain (Model # TF125) [$57.95]
Sway Bar Disconnects: This is where I deviated from Alan Bates. He went with some JKS disconnects made for a Jeep Grand Cherokee (Model # 3100). In his article I read that they were 3 inches longer than stock p38 sway bar links at their shortest length. Considering I was aiming for only 2 inches, I was afraid they were going to push my sway bar down, keeping them from becoming parallel to the ground. So I did some research and found that the disconnects made for a Jeep JK (Model # 2030) were around 1.5 inches longer than the stock p38 sway bar links. So I took the plunge and bought them [153.82]
Unlike the disconnects for the Cherokee, the 2030s did not need any new hardware, they are the perfect length with spacers and all. I thought this was a nice find! However, you still need to drill larger holes in the frame (~ 1/32-1/16 larger diameter)
Rear Springs: Old Man Emu 2761 passenger side with spring isolators [$168]
Rear Shocks: P38 stock front Bilstein shocks (B46-2214) They bolt right in, and allow for 2 inches of lift.
Procedure Tips:
I only have 2 jack stands a floor jack and a bottle jack. So, I could only have one end lifted at a time. When lifting, get the rig high enough to take the tire off, then put your jack stand right behind the radius arm. If you put the stand on the radius arm, it will constrict the axel from dropping low enough to install the springs
Attachment 144241
IMPORTANT! Watch your brakelines! Be sure to unbolt them to the frame to give some extra slack. These steps allowed me to slide my springs in without a compressor. Those things scare the crap out of me.
Make sure your spring are seated relatively center on the upper spring towers. You dont want the side of your springs to be rubbing against the side of the frame.
IMPORTANT! The shop manual calls for 92 ft-lbs of torque to be applied to the upper shock bolts. I didnt do this the first time and I got a gnarly rattle from the rear end. My shock bolts were actually coming loose, so make sure you do this step properly!
The rear brakelines will be too short to cover full axel articulation, so an extended brakeline bracket is in order, or some extended brakelines.
Results:
The distance from the center of the wheel to the top of the wheel arch was around 19 inches on all four wheels BEFORE the lift.
Attachment 144233
With the lift, the front sits just under 21 inches and the rear sits around 22.5 inches.
Attachment 144225
Hindsight:
The front sits about 1.5 inches lower than the rear. This difference is a little large for my liking. If I were to do it again, I would buy 2751 DRIVER SIDE springs and add a spring isolator to them. This would add an additional 0.78 inches to the lift, limiting the height difference between the rear and the front.
I didnt realized that I needed to specify which side I wanted when I bought from Expedition Exchange. If you buy from EE, make sure you specify which side springs you want, because they sell them in matched pairs. Now I have to figure out how to get some 0.75 inch spacers for my rig.
Hopefully you found this helpful,
Landis