Quantcast
Channel: RangeRovers.net Forum
Viewing all 24579 articles
Browse latest View live
↧

fuel pump issue and no headlight issue 89 classic

July 28, 2015, 7:15 pm
$
0
0
ok so i just bought a barn stored 89 classic with 063011 on the odometer.it sat for the last 7 yrs or so and was last plated in 2002 and its got a lot of dried mud under it , but the body is pretty clean..... doesnt run on its own, ran with starter fluid...sooo...

i searched the web for the electrical issues, and checked....

the fuel pump fuse has power for the first couple seconds when the key is turned to position 2, sometimes... when cranking... no power
i swapped the relays with the power seat relays and they are good, i think i read the blue one was the fuel pump.... i hear the click ... sometimes
now.. i havent dropped the tank yet... but i have power to the connector, and thru the extension connector piece on the frame rail behind the drivers rear tire, before the pump....

i had a spare car battery and directly ran a power n ground wire to the pump plug, nothing happened but the wires sparked when i put them onto the plug.

also where can i find what relays are on the firewall in the engine bay? the one closest to the center of the vehicle has no relay?

and.... no headlights work!!!! no power at any of the 4 fuses...
↧
Search

Pre-Purchase Inspection

July 28, 2015, 7:30 pm
$
0
0
Can anyone recommend a reputable company to do a pre-purchase inspection on a 2013 RRS? I am in NYC and looking at a vehicle located in Laguna Niguel, CA 92677. Unfortunately, its being sold by a non-LR dealership, so I need to be extra cautious. Carfax looks good and the dealership swears the car is perfect (shocker!).

I read some horror stories about some PPI web sites (meaning they send out incompetent people who do a pathetic excuse of a job) and I don't want to be a victim of one of those web sites.

Any suggestions/recommendations?
↧
↧

Most current sat nav CD compatible with 2002 P38?

July 28, 2015, 8:08 pm
$
0
0
I'm sure it's been covered before, but I've been searching for some time now and my findings are just making me more confused. What is the most current sat nav CD compatible with my 2002 P38?

Is it this one? (found it on Ebay):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2001-20...ht_1777wt_1001

I think it's the 2007.1 version.

I understand that it's basically obsolete and my pocket phone has a better GPS, but it's still a pretty cool thing to have if you're a purist like me... `)

Thanks in advance!

Darvin

P.S. The disk I have in the navi now is a burnt copy somehow obtained by the prior owner. It has no label stating what year version it is though. Is there any way I could find out if it's the most current one?
↧

Torque Converter Replacement Question

July 28, 2015, 9:31 pm
$
0
0
Hi everyone.

Having read many helpful posts (including RRPhil, thank you) my 2003 L322 HSE 4.4v8 is at the specialist who has confirmed that the torque converter needs replacing. (Shudder at 40km/h, tacho dipping and rising, and minor humming at about 80km/h - all ok in manual mode however).

As in some other posts, the specialist recommends replacing the transmission with a reco unit at the same time. I do see the logic in this (and only one lot of labour costs). However, I am not inclined to replace the transmission as the TC symptoms are fairly recent (about 2 months) and the transmission itself has not skipped a beat. The fluid is, however, dark and obviously has to be replaced (last changed about 40k ago).

I understand the risks, but my instinct tells me just to replace the TC (and flush the gearbox with fresh trans fluid at the same time).

Does anyone have any firm view that the trans should be replaced or is there a reasonable chance that the replacement TC will be sufficient?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers, Nigel
↧

Coil pack hardware.

July 28, 2015, 9:57 pm
$
0
0
Does anybody know where i can find the bolts in step 2? Also I need bolts that mount the individual packs to the bracket.. Thank you.
Attached Images
↧
↧

Hi from France

July 29, 2015, 5:41 am
$
0
0
Quite happy to join the forum.
I'm the happy owner of a 4 doors RR Classic 3.9 Vogue SE with an auto gearbox which was born in 1990.
I bought it 10 years ago.
Regards
Patrick
↧

HSE Lux owner from Michigan

July 29, 2015, 6:54 am
$
0
0
Good morning--I am a new member and enjoying my first Range Rover. 2011 Sport HSE Luxury.
I have an issue with it and would like to post in the appropriate forum but not sure how to do that yet, lol!
↧

ABS Pump and Accumulator Diagnostics

July 29, 2015, 6:59 am
$
0
0
Hi, I´ve recently bought a P38 Range Rover and the latest issue (of many already!) that I have experienced is somehow related to the braking system.
Both ABS and emergency brake lights come on at every first push of the brake pedal meanwhile I can hear the pump running.

Looking at this page
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdet...aketc/abs.html
I guess that the problem lays either on the accumulator or... somewhere else!

I followed the instruction for the diagnosys and the pump did cycle on repeatedly during the 5-minute wait, now what is "unclear" to me is the "some sort of internal leakage (probably a seal, or check-valve)".
I would change the accumulator but I feel that may not cure the issue.
Which "seal" or "check-valve" should I check?
Should I better change the accumulator and its electric pump or the whole ABS/master cylinder box?
↧
Search

Need new computer for 2011 RR Sport HSE Lux

July 29, 2015, 6:59 am
$
0
0
The radio and everything on that screen stopped working a few months back. I took it to my local RR dealer and they told me I need a whole new computer (parts and labor around $1200!). Someone suggested that I find an aftermarket computer and someone to install it for me to save some considerable $$$. Does anyone have any suggestions for me as to where to find an aftermarket computer for a RR? Appreciate any help at all. Thanks so much.
↧
↧

Brake issue: stops well, but much force needed. 05 l322

July 29, 2015, 7:26 am
$
0
0
Hoping anyone can give some advice where to start:

Last year I had the front pads and rotors replaced, and ever since it's been a lot harder to brake. I'm a big and strong guy, so I can easily get the car to stop, but the issue seems to be getting worse. Since a few months the brake pedal is also stiff to the top before starting.

This weekend I had to replace the rear pads and rotors (did it myself this time) and decided to do a proper brake bleed thinking that would help. Zero effect.

Does this simply mean replacing the servo, or is there anything else I should start with?
↧

Can someone tell me if these cbls need to be connected?

July 29, 2015, 7:37 am
$
0
0
I've been dealing with having to jump start my battery lately to have the engine turn over so I'm about to replace the battery. I was visually checking the battery cables and have noticed a small black connectors(male and female) aren't plugged in to each other.

Could someone verify if this needs to be connected together or not?

Thanks in advance!
↧

LPG single point fault- the saga continues...

July 29, 2015, 10:01 am
$
0
0
95 4.6 HSE with OMVL R90 Millenium closed loop system.
The car has sensed that it's annual MOT inspection is coming on Friday and has thrown me a few random last minute faults to deal with. Have sorted the sudden appearance of ABS Fault/ Traction Failure (wheel sensor air gap) but the LPG system is showing what I think to be a rudimentary fault code.
When driving on LPG, at random, the orange "you are running/ switching to LPG" light will flash. The red "you are running on petrol" light stays off. No apparent difference to performance and when I pull over to do a sniff of the exhaust test I'm definitely running on gas!
The orange light will continue to flash until I switch the vehicle off, even if I select to run on petrol. It does switch to petrol, red light comes on, runs on petrol (another exhaust sniff), but the orange light continues to flash with petrol selected.
Plugged in diagnostics to the LPG ECU and can't see anything out of the ordinary, but can't actually replicate the fault when static as the car needs to be driving and the cable's not long enough to have the laptop visible in the cabin when driving.
Thoughts anyone?
↧

** INFO ** Repairing Window Switchpack Switches

July 29, 2015, 1:57 pm
$
0
0
So, I've been intrigued for awhile about the issues that there are with window switchpacks - randomly failing, or switches becoming intermittent.

Sometimes, yes a blast of contact cleaner works, or it works for awhile and then it starts playing up again.

We've got a P38 in the workshop that we are fixing up to sell, rather than break it for parts - and the other day I noticed that the window switches were playing up. They had all been working fine, but now they were intermittent at best.

So, being that I like to pull things apart, and because I wanted to see if it was fixable rather than chuck it out and buy a replacement - which will be second hand anyway, I got it on the work bench this afternoon and stripped it right back. I did a test run on one of them to see if it was a case of being able to repair, before breaking out the camera and taking photos... Pix or it didn't happen, right?

What I found (before I get into the pictures and the steps I took) was that the little metal disc that is actually the 'switch' looks to get tarnished over time, and on one of them I saw there was a tiny spot of corrosion build up too - which was causing the connection to be intermittent.

So I'll start from the point where you've got the window switchpack out of the vehicle, on a bench - and the switch module removed from the trim and the board unclipped from this. On my one there were a bunch of Torx head screws holding the switch module to the trim. I think they were either a T10 or T15. I just grabbed the screwdriver off the shelf and didn't check what it was!

So, you've got this board in front of you, with a whole load of dust and crud on it, and a bunch of switches that don't work... The first step is to take the switch caps off. The one I was working on I could unclip them with my fingers but pulling up one side, and then following with the other. Technically you don't NEED to remove them, but I found it useful at the end to make sure everything was still sitting in place after the clear light pipe octopus was put back in place.

Attachment 143569 (the Rear Inhibit switch was my test one so was put back together and tested by this point!)

So next, turn the board upside down and you get a view of the bottom of the switches like this:
Attachment 143561

Take a sharp knife and then cut off the black plastic tips of the switch housings. Be careful removing them as you want to put them to one side for later... We'll use them to help hold the switches back on after the fixing is done.
Attachment 143553

You should end up with something looking a bit like this:
Attachment 143545

You should then be able to remove the switch from the board. Sometimes they need a bit of persuasion from a thin spudger (though I was able to pull most of mine off with a bit of a wiggle)
Attachment 143537

And you end up with this:
Attachment 143609

And the board looking like this:
Attachment 143601

Then take your sharp knife again (I use a scalpel for these smaller bits) and cut the tape around the switch pads so they can be removed:
Attachment 143593

Then remove the switch pads and you'll have a board that looks like this:
Attachment 143577

And then you get the switch pads separate. as you can see, there is some tarnishing on one side of these.
Attachment 143585

I then used a small screwdriver just to scratch the surface and scrub the tarnishing off of it. I will continue in the next post, as I can only put 10 pictures in a post....
↧
↧

Hello from Denver!

July 29, 2015, 2:06 pm
$
0
0
I have a 2005 HSE! And I will have questions!
↧

ECU/Steering Column Fix for my 2005 HSE

July 29, 2015, 2:13 pm
$
0
0
Hi there, I've seen a few posts on this topic but I just want to confirm what I think I've learned: I have a 2005 RR HSE and the key stopped working, and there is a clicking in the steering column. My mechanic figured out that if I unhook the battery, reattach it, then it will start. If I leave the key IN the ignition, it will continue to start, but if I take the key out, I have to undo the battery again-- MAJOR PAIN!!

So the RR dealership told me they think it is the ECU in the steering column which is a $5000 fix. Well the car is only worth $13K so I can't put that kind of money into it! Can someone please confirm that there is an inexpensive workaround involving Fuse #18? I don't quite understand what I need to do with that. But I really need to be able to take my key in and out of the ignition and lock it up.

Also, if I use this workaround, will the steering column continue to work to drive my car? It pivots and steers fine right now, although I do have to muscle it a little at slow speed. Is this ECU just an alarm/disabling feature that I can drive without its functionality?
↧
Search

Upper winshield gasket/trim coming out

July 29, 2015, 2:32 pm
$
0
0
Just purchased a new upper windshield gasket/trim as the old one came off while driving and now the new one is as well. There was a sticker of sorts along the base where it hits the windshield but that did no good to hold it in place.

Any ideas of what to use to hold it in place while on the freeway?
↧

2016 Sport configurator

July 29, 2015, 2:39 pm
$
0
0
has anyone else noticed that LR's website has been updated with the 2016 configurator for the Sport? (and the LR4)
↧
↧

Range Rover Sport Supercharged - Autobiography Conversion

July 29, 2015, 2:56 pm
↧

Twin Driving Lamps Installed on RRS

July 29, 2015, 5:57 pm
$
0
0
Well these things have been sitting around for some time, let me tell you! I haven't really seen many cars on here with these so I decided to document the installation for a write up as well. Finally got the courage, time, and the proper metric tools to start the project. As of right now I have only installed the lamps and connected the outer fog lights, I have yet to fully wire the new lights into place along with the new switch on the dash. I thought this was a good start because I was just sick of looking at them on the workbench and I wanted to finally see them on the car! Here are a few pics, DIY to come soon. Absolutely loving the look of them, let me know what you guys think! An OEM brush guard is on the way as well, with a roof rack to also come soon :twisted: Anyone else going to be at the WNLRR?

Attachment 143809Attachment 143817Attachment 143801
Attached Images
↧

Moab

July 29, 2015, 7:48 pm
$
0
0
Took the RR to Moab last week to do some rock crawling. It's stock with the exception of a 1 1/2" lift. We did Hell's Revenge, Poison Spider, and Metal Masher. This is my first time off-roading a Range Rover and I was very impressed. We pushed it hard, had a few close calls, but it handled just about everything that we threw at it.










Last year I did the same trip, and same trails, with my lifted G63. The RR was equally as capable with fewer mods.



Put Moab on your bucket list. It's an amazing place.
↧
Viewing all 24579 articles
Browse latest View live
Search