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Just Purchased a 2002 Range Rover with 140K

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Hi All,

I've just purchased a 2002 Range Rover 4.4 V8 Vogue. It has 140K on the clock.
Looks mint, inside and out.

Calling all Range Rover Experts. What would you do now? I was thinking of paying for a 130 quid 'detailed health check'.. How many miles can these engines do. Check out the spiel regarding the car below.
I have money to spend now and if there are some Classic things I should get done to it straight away, please let me know. Really appreciate any info.

Fully Serviced 1st Nov. & 12 Months MOT A/C serviced May-16 with brand new condenser fitted. New water pump, fuel pump, plugs and coil packs at last service. Crank sensor and O2 sensors replaced - engine runs beautifully. Very good looker and solid all-round car Always well maintained Fully featured with heated front and rear seats and heated steering wheel Full leather trim, Range Rover mats front and back, just a very nice car 5+ owners, GR

Newb

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Hi all. Just took delivery of a 2006 Range Rover Supercharged Autobiography.

It's a great 'truck' with a little over 43,000 miles. The Rover won't be my daily driver but I'm looking forward to it!


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Dallas member

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Doing some research before buying a '70s Range Rover.

I am an engineer for a shop that builds racecars for sports car racing. Mainly chassis and suspension prep. As a sideline we do engine swaps for track use. So I'm well versed in fabrication and systems building, from whole chassis builds to small electrical additions.

Hoping to find info and supporting resources for these early Range Rovers.

iPad Mini windshield or dash mount and cables?

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My other main vehicle is a 2012 Sprinter RV, which also has a fairly poor nav system, so I set that up with a ProClip dash mount for my iPad Mini 3. I use Google Maps or Waze almost all the time when driving, along with several apps for finding RV parks, restaurants, etc. The Sprinter head unit will also allow me to use Bluetooth to stream music stored on the iPad or Pandora, which I know we can't do directly to the head unit in my 2011 HSE Lux. Unfortunate.

Is there a dash or windshield mount that you like for an iPad or other medium tablet? I also have an Android phone, and could use that instead. With a tablet it probably needs to be positioned just above the nav screen, to not obscure that or the windshield. A phone could probably go to one side or other of the nav screen. A windshield suction cup mount with an arm of the correct length might work alright.

Is it possible to use an Apple Lightning connector to 30-pin adapter to plug into the iPod connector in the center console to charge and play audio (stored music and Pandora)? If not, I see that there is an aux audio input at the back of the center console, is there another more convenient one? Ideally I'd like to have one cable from the iPad Lightning connector that splits to USB fast charging and audio, but the ones I see on Amazon are poorly rated due to static in the audio.

Any other solutions?

Pre Facelift Range Rovers?

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I see a little info about Classics and their compatibility with early Discos, but not much information about the pre-facelift Range Rovers before they were imported to the US. While it looks like the chassis and driveline components might be able to be mixed and matched up through the end of RRC and Discovery 1 production, how compatible are the very early body and trim to the post facelift, and then post second facelift in '89?

I see a lot of aftermarket support for the '87+ models, but nobody lists parts for the early models. Is that because they don't see enough pre-import cars, or are their parts really incompatible with early cars? Even sellers of OEM parts, like bearings and brake parts seem to only list parts for the later cars.

While I don't expect to be able to keep an early car that sees real use 100% correct, I would like to know that I can find working replacements for tailight lenses, window regulators, or wipers if needed.

Are there any gotchas with the early cars drivetrains that would make them incompatible with later RRC models?
Are there any OEM or stock parts sellers that at least include the early cars in their listings, if not cater in them?
How compatible are the early cars to the '87+ cars when it comes to body accessories, like roof racks and bumpers?

1999 Gems 4.6 Callaway runs rich and trans issue

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I am throwing codes:
P1147 Purge Canister closure valve poor performance
P0451 Eval Emissions System pressure sensor
P0300 Random misfire
P1316 Misfire causing excessive emissions.

The rover is stalling and is getting crappy mileage. Additionally, the trans is not kicking down. (are they interrelated?)

I pulled the Canister purge valve but am not sure how to check it. The numbers on it are 002 93-030 I have a gems motor as it was a Callaway.
It definitely feel like there is a vacuum leak which is consistent with a failed purge valve. (according to what I have read). I saw on this forum where someone suggested using the Hyundai28910 22040 as a substitute, but it looks totally different. Can I bypass the valve? Any help would be appreciated! I also cannot find an oem part. Atlantic British is saying that no one makes them anymore..

OEM Winch Mount?

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My car started its life as a demo vehicle for Land Rover, so it has options added to it. I'm certain the brush guard is a typical, but there is a heavy duty bar that is welded to the frame below it with two plugs and mounting holes. One plug is a standard 110 plug for a block heater. I am assuming it is a winch mount and that the second plug is related to that somehow. Does someone else have this option on their truck? Is it for powering a winch or controlling it some how?

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oil change 3.0 deisel 2014

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hi all, im about to do an oil change on my 3.0 deisel 2014, i have always used a vacuum to suck the oil out, where can i do this from ?, i had a quick look and no dip-stick/tube. i know the v8 has the vacuum tube inside/under the filler cap, which is visable when the cap is removed.

Front suspension dropping over night...

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Hey everyone, Im new to the forum, ive owned 4 Range Rovers over the years and have had good luck with most if them. My 2012 Range Rover HSE has only 24k miles on it and the front suspension is dropping overnight to the bumpstops most noticeable on cold mornings when it sits outside. I have already spent $$$ having a shop replace the front valve. I did not make any difference. I have disconnected the battery over night and this morning the drivers side front is down to the bumpstops and the passenger front is lower but still a couple inches above the drivers side....
I inspected the bags the best I could while it was on a rack getting new tires put on yesterday and sprayed with soapy water and I did not see any bubbling. Also the bags look like there are in bery good condition. I would be surprised if one of them is leaking...the shop said they would need to replace one or two bags...
Is it possible that the leak could be from one of the lines and also possibly be causing the front right to drop as well as the left? Also remember the front valve i just had replaced.
Please someone help.. im good at DIY stuff and not afraid to take it apart myself, does anyone know how I can find a diagram of where the lines are? Compressor, etc?

Manual gearbox conversion

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When holidaying in Scotland earlier in the year, I spoke to a P38 owner who said that there was a firm doing a conversion for the 4.6 auto to manual using the ZF six speed box from a discovery 3. He couldn't remember the name of the firm but said it was on the internet. I've done many searches and not found anything, does anyone have any knowledge of this?

what is in the Head Gasket Set 4.2 (LR006635)

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Does anyone have a details list of what exactly is in the Head Gasket Set 4.2 (LR006635)
Looking at the pictures something are obviose other are not .
I cannot tell if it include the Cam Cover gasket LR029132, or the oil dip stick seal, im not sure what all those seals are that are included in the picture

Re: 2010 RRS TPMS sensors programming. No clear answer

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Hey guys just a quick question that I haven't really seen a concrete answer for.

On the 2010-13 models do new TPMS sensors need to be programmed to the module or is it just a simple matter of installing and driving for 10 minutes on the highway?

And, if they need to be programmed can it be done with the IIDTool-BT?

Alternator, Starter or something else?

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I live in a warm region of the country and cold here is about 50 degrees. Recently, the temp hit around 40 degrees overnight and when I try to turn on my '03 Rover some mornings nothing happens. The battery's less than a year old and is strong. The radio, ac, alarm, lights, etc comes on just fine.

I've jump started it when this happens and it works fine the rest of the day. The problem is very intermittent. Is there a way I could check if it's the starter, alternator, or could it be something else?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Transmission fault. Code 3B01H/15105?

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02 Range Rover 4.4 BMW v8. 3B01H/15105 is the code that comes up on a snap on scanner with the latest soft wear. What is happening is when you first start the car and go into gear all is ok and with a small amount of throttle it's ok to but when I put my foot down a bit to pull out the engine revs up and no movement so I let off the throttle and back on a bit it bangs into gear then is fine for the rest of the journey. Doesn't mater if the engine is cold or warn. I hope you might be able to shed some light on this. I had the box ad converter rebuilt 7 weeks ago and done a 500 mile round trip to wales and back with no problem then this started the next day. I will ring the rebuilders but I would like to go armed with some info so he can't fob me off. Any help would be appropriated as I'm running out of money. Thanks

Remote control key

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Hello RR friends,

Well, 3 years ago, i bougth an 1996 2.5 DT P38 Rangie, when i saw the car i know that the remote control does not work, so doesnt lock or unlock the doors.

The immobilizer is electronically disabled, but i will like to fix my remote control but are the IC completly destroyed.

So i found an used car where i can take two original remote control, the receiver, the ignition switch and the door handle.

My question is if i put the all compnents of the P38, the remote door locking system will work fine?

Thank you for your help.

I Wait your answer.

Eldemar F.M.

suspension air bag replacement - getting bag out

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ok never done this before but front bags leaking like sieves so bought 2 new ones from rimmers -- doing offside first depressurised via rsw software(10 mins) disconnected air line from offside bag (1 min) removed wheel arch liner (20 mins), clips from bottom of air bag(5 mins)retaining bolt.. (5 mins), pin gosh that was so long! (40 mins) thing is i can't remove the bag - there seems to be insufficient room to dislodge and drag the bottom of the bag out and no way of removing it from the top of the bag === my searching hasn't brought up what i'm doing wrong.................

System Fault Special Programs Unavailable and other codes

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Hi all, brand new here and decided to post after researching several codes on a 2006 Range Rover Sport I was looking into purchasing. We already own one Range Rover Sport but are still new to Land Rovers. We love our sport so much that we decided to get a second used one for me as my wife drives our other one. We found one we really liked at a BMW dealership of all places. Before we made the 1.5 hr trip to view it the dealer called to say that the suspension in the rear was down and was making a dragging sound and the car was being sold as is. I asked him to put the car in off road mode and raise it to see if it would raise. After walking him through how to do it he said the following: “System Fault Special Programs Unavailable”, When I tried to check for faults, I got “HDC Fault”, here are some codes that came up, P0441, P0101, P0442, U0167, P0633, P0620, P0579.

I looked these up for anyone else out there who may be encountering the same problems (found below). I'll provide an update on Tuesday as I will be dialoguing with our Landrover shop to see what the likely cause is before we actually purchase it, currently thinking it could be anything from needing a new battery or alternator, to a compressor (not likely), or scrapping the corrosion off of fuse number 26 next to the battery. Just a few thoughts. Anyone else have these problems? Looking forward to being a regular member and sharing our joys and foibles on this Range Rover journey.


Trouble Code:
System:
Subsystem:
P0441 - (ASE)
Powertrain
Auxiliary Emission Controls

DTC Description: Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Incorrect Purge Flow
Analysis: The Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister pressure did not decrease adequately during a purging cycle or the pressure remained lower than expected once the purge cycle ended. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) detected no flow or an incorrect flow through the system during the test. The system has then failed the flow test, the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is illuminated, and the P0441 fault code is set.
Process Synopsis:

The vapor pressure sensor and the purge and vent valves are used to test the Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) system for problems. The Valves are alternately opened and closed such that vent valve/canister valve is closed and then opens the switching valve to increase the vacuum on the system. Once the vacuum reaches a preset level as measured by the vapor pressure sensor it closes the switching/purge valve. Time intervals and vapor pressure levels are compared to predetermined values to determine whether the flow through the system meets the levels expected or not.

Likely Causes:

Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Vapor Lines Clogged, Cracked, Damaged, Disconnected, Loose, or Leaking:
-- Vapor line from Purge Solenoid Valve to Manifold Vacuum Reservoir.
-- Vapor line from Canister Purge Solenoid to Charcoal Canister
-- Vapor line from Charcoal Canister to Check Valve
-- Vapor line from Check Valve to Fuel Vapor Valves
-- Fuel Tank Vapor Lines
Component Leaks:
-- Damaged, Cross threaded, very loosely installed, or missing fuel filler cap => Check Gas Cap, tighten until it clicks
-- After-market Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) hardware, such as fuel filler cap, etc., that do not conform to required specifications
Wrong filler cap, Gas Cap => If the cap has been replaced, it may not be the correct cap for the vehicle.
Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) system component seals leaking:
-- Fuel Tank filler neck or sending unit O-ring leak.
-- Fuel Tank is cracked or damaged such that it is leaking.
-- Fuel Tank overfill check valve is cracked or damaged
-- Canister or Seal Damaged and Leaking
Evaporative Emissions (EVAP), Canister Purge Valve, or Vent Solenoid Valve Issues:
-- Vent or Purge Valve power supply circuit is open (No power reaching circuit from battery) => Check Fuses to Actuator, Ignition, Engine, etc.
-- Vent or Purge Valve solenoid control circuit is open (No power reaching control circuit)
-- Vent or Purge Valve solenoid control circuit is shorten to Electrical Ground (GND), Chassis
-- Vent or Purge Valve solenoid control circuit is shorten to (B+), (Vehicle Power (VPWR) [Battery Voltage])
-- Vent or Purge Solenoid Valve is Damaged or Failing
Vapor Switching Valve (VSV) or Canister Control Valve (CCV) Sensor Issues:
-- Vapor Pressure sensor Damaged or Malfunctioning
-- Vapor Pressure sensor circuit is open (No power reaching control circuit)
-- Vapor Pressure sensor circuit is shorten to Electrical Ground (GND), Chassis
Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) component failure:
-- Canister Purge Valve, solenoid, not opening => Possibly damaged or stuck, and leaks
-- Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge valve stuck closed, but leaks
-- Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Vacuum Switch is damaged or malfunctioning
-- Charcoal canister is clogged, or loaded with fuel or moisture.

-- Damaged/Failed Powertrain Control Module (PCM)




Trouble Code: P0442 - (ASE)
System:
Subsystem: Powertrain
Auxiliary Emission Controls

DTC Description: Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Leak Detected (small leak)
Analysis: The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) monitors the complete Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) control system for presence of a small fuel vapor leak. The system failure occurs when a fuel vapor leak from an opening as small as 0.040 inch (1.016 mm) is detected by the Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) while running a loss monitor test.

This test occurs after the system achieves a proper vacuum, with engine running shortly after cold engine startup, with the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor reading a temperature of less than 90 degrees F, Fahrenheit, (32 degrees C - Centigrade), and with the vehicle at a steady speed. This trouble code occurs when the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) detects a small leak, vacuum decay, in the Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) system. The Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is illuminated when this fault code is set.
Process Synopsis:

The evaporative emissions system attempts to completely isolate fuel fumes that come from the fuel tank or any other fuel reservoir that in the past had to be vented to the air to prevent the gasses from building pressure in the air filled cavities above the standing fuel (i.e. air above the fuel in the fuel tank). These systems are completely sealed in newer vehicles to prevent the escape of fuel vapor into the atmosphere.

Likely Causes:

Component Leaks:
-- Damaged, cross-threaded or loosely installed fuel filler cap => Check Gas Cap, tighten until it clicks
-- After-market Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) hardware, such as fuel filler cap, etc., that do not conform to required specifications
Wrong filler cap, Gas Cap => If the cap has been replaced, it may not be the correct cap for the vehicle.
-- Small holes or cuts in fuel vapor hoses or tubes
-- Loose fuel vapor hose and tube connections to Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) system components
-- Fuel Tank is cracked or damaged such that it is leaking.
Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) system component seals leaking:
-- Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge valve leaking
-- Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister vent solenoid leaking
-- Fuel tank pressure sensor leaking
-- Fuel Vapor control valve tube assembly leaking
-- Fuel Vapor Vent valve assembly leaking
-- Fuel filler neck O-ring leak.
Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) component failure:
-- Canister Vent (CV) solenoid stays partially open on closed command (possibly sticking)
-- Fuel Tank pressure sensor is damaged, disconnected, or malfunctioning
-- Fuel Tank pressure sensor circuit is open or shorted to ground
-- Clogged, blocked, or restricted fuel tank vapor lines, or purge valve vapor lines.
-- Charcoal canister is clogged, or loaded with fuel or moisture.
-- Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) circuit for the Canister Control Valve (CCV) is open or shorted to Ground.


Trouble Code: P0101 - (ASE)
System:
Subsystem: Powertrain
Fuel and Air Metering

DTC Description: Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range / Performance

Location:
Analysis:
Likely Cause:Flow A Out of Expected Range


Trouble Code: U0167 - (ASE)
System:
Subsystem:Network Communication
Fuel and Air Metering

DTC Description: Lost Communication With Vehicle Immobilizer Control Module

Location:
Analysis:
Likely Cause:


Trouble Code: P0633 - (ASE)
System:
Subsystem: Powertrain
Computer and Auxiliary Output Circuits

DTC Description: Immobilizer Key Not Programmed Engine Control Module (ECM) / Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

Location:
Analysis:
Likely Cause:


Trouble Code: P0620 - (ASE)
System:
Subsystem: Powertrain
Computer and Auxiliary Output Circuits

DTC Description: Generator Control Circuit
Location:
Analysis:
Likely Cause:
Circuit Issue


Trouble Code: P0579 - (ASE)

System:
Subsystem: Powertrain
Vehicle Speed Control, Idle Controls, and Auxiliary Inputs

DTC Description: Cruise Control Multi - Function Input A Circuit Range / Performance
Location:
Analysis:
Likely Cause:
Out of Expected Range

LR4 vs Range Rover L322

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Howdy, folks. I have a 2006 Rover and am contemplating a move to a 2016 LR4 Landmark Edition. I love my Rover and would buy a 2015/2016 if I could afford it, but a $68k LR4 is aready a slight stretch for my wife and I, so that is the only thing we are considering. We would probably sell the Rover either before purchasing, or soon after (no space for two SUVs, and no "need" for the Rover if we had a new LR SUV in the family).

We're looking for some feedback from anyone who currently has both (an L322 or L405 vs an LR4) or has driven both (beyond just a test drive). We "off-road" a little (sand dunes, dirt tracks, easier "trails", a little mud and shallow river crossings) in our Rover and would do the same in an LR4... aka "Overlanding". Concerned/fixated on differences in ground clearance, articulation, weight, etc. Thanks!

94 Classic Fuse for Cigarette Lighter, Seat Heat

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I evidently blew a fuse and lost the cigarette lighter, seat heat, and turn signals all at once. I have looked under seats and in fuse block on dash and all fuses are fine. Where else should I look? There is no fuse block in engine compartment. Thanks!

New bumpers and winch...

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